Swayambhunath Stupa

Atop a small forested hill in Kathmandu is a religious, soulful, and psychological sanctuary, known by many names: “Swayambhu”, “Swayambhunath”, and “The Monkey Temple”. 

I’m talking about Swayambhunath Stupa, a sacred site for Buddhists all over the world, portraying a symbol of harmony with Hindu temples and deities. Even if you’re an atheist or of any other religion, this white dome with a gold top and big, watchful eyes is open to everyone!

Swayambhunath is one of the oldest Buddhist structures in Nepal, with records of it dating back to 460 AD! This monument is surrounded by Hindu temples, shrines, prayer wheels, monasteries, views, and many legends. 

But what precisely is Swayambhunath, and what does the name mean?

"Swayam" means “self” or “by oneself”, and “bhu” means “born” or “existing”. Combined, the name means “self-born” or “self-existent”. This refers to the divine light or flame that is believed to have manifested by itself in the primordial lake (Nagdaha).

Swayambhunath is one of the most sacred places from the standpoint of both Buddhism and Hinduism. It is about 2 to 3 km northwest of Kathmandu Durbar Square and is one of the best locations in Kathmandu for sunrise and valley viewing.

Swayabhunath’s origin can be traced from two parallel yet distinct narratives: mythological and historical. 

Mythological narrative is based on religious texts, folklores, and legends, whereas the historical narrative is supported by epigraphy, textual, and archeological evidence.

The myth explains the reasons behind the holiness of Swayambhunath, while the history explains how a hill top shrine became one of the most important religious destinations. 

Since both perspectives are equally relevant in our article, let us explore them both!

The Myth of the Thousand Leaves Lotus and the Lake

Thousands of years ago, when Kathmandu Valley was still a lake, Lord of Serpents, Karkotak Nag, along with other aquatic creatures, lived here.

One day a great saint named Vipaswi Tathagat came to Nagdaha (a name given to the Kathmandu Paleo Lake), where he threw a lotus root/rhizome. The following year on the day of Baisakh Purnima, a gigantic thousand-petal lotus bloomed in the middle of the lake, manifesting a self-existent light (called Swayambhu Dharmadhatu).

The divine light emitted five different colors, which pulled in a lot of saints and devotees, including seven Buddhas across different eras. One of these Buddhas was Krakuchchhanda, who visited the lake to worship the self-manifested divine light and later created the sacred Bagmati River with his divine speech to perform the monastic consecration of his disciples.

Manjusri and the Draining of the Valley

Manjusri, a Bodhisattva from China, left Mount Wutai in Shanxi after receiving a revelation of the divine lotus and its light in the middle of Nagdaha. Riding a blue lion, he entered Nepal through Nyalam, Tibet, with his two consorts (Varada and Mokshya) to gaze upon this sacred lake. 

Upon validating his vision, Manjusri decided to praise the lotus and turn the lake into a habitable zone for human beings. To do so, he cut open the valley at the Chobhar Gorge with his flaming sword - The Candrahasa. 

As the water level receded, the lotus with divine light tipped over and settled on a rocky hill called Syengu or Singhu hill. This very hill became the home for Swayambhunath Stupa.

As the lake kept drying, the Lord Serpents of Nagdaha found themselves displaced from their home. Upon witnessing their predicament, Manjusri carved out a basin (known as Taudaha), south-west of the Chobhar Gorge, for Serpent King Karkotaka and his family. 

Manjusri then went on to build the first civilization by laying the groundwork for a new city called Manjupattana. To lead this new community, he chose a wise and virtuous noble trader called Dharmakar.

Such is the mythological story of the lake, the lotus, the divine light, the hill, and Bodhisattva Manjusri. Interesting, right? Now, let me tell you a story on how Swayambhunath Stupa was built.

Lore on How Swayambhunath Stupa was Built

Prachanda Deva, a king from Gauda (traditionally located in the Bengal region, modern-day West Bengal/Bangladesh) embraced monastic life and settled in Swayambhunath. He changed his name to Shantikar Acharya and became a tantric master. 

To protect the divine light of the lotus from the corrupting forces of the upcoming Kali Yuga, he encased the flame within a massive stone slab and built a brick dome over it through his own tantric power. Centuries later, historical chronicles attribute the physical founding and structural expansion of this hemispherical dome to the Licchavi King Vrsadeva, who ruled around 400 CE.

It's also believed he hid the original eternal flame (the divine light) beneath the stupa and established shrines around it to balance the five elements (Panchapur).

Upon closer examination of the site's lore, I found another fascinating story. This story brought Emperor Ashoka of the 3rd century BCE to the site and supported him in building a temple, which later on was destroyed. We don't have actual records regarding this matter, so the claim is purely legendary.

What History Actually Tells Us

The actual history of Swayambhunath doesn’t feel pale in comparison to the lores. Geologists describe the drying of the Paleo Kathmandu Lake as a consequence of frequent natural calamities (earthquakes and landslides) for thousands of years.

When a lake dries, trapped underground gases like methane and phosphine escape into the air. These gases upon coming in contact with air naturally ignite through chemical sparks or static electricity. 

So, according to my own research, our ancestors witnessed this natural light and interpreted it as a divine and sacred presence. With a lack of present day knowledge, it was bound to be recorded as a divine light, which later on was enshrined in the Swayambhunath Stupa.

The 14th-century royal chronicle, the Gopal Raj Vamsavali, explicitly credits King Vrsadeva with founding the site in the early 5th century. While a heavily damaged Licchavi-era stone inscription discovered at Swayambhunath does bear references to repairs and works linked to his legacy, the text remains too broken to serve as a pristine, dated foundation record on its own.

But the one who actually oversaw the construction of Swayambhunath Stupa’s main structure is King Manadeva (464-505 AD), the great-grandson of King Vrsadeva. He installed numerous inscriptions during his reign, among which the 464 CE stone pillar inscription at Changu Narayan Temple stands as the earliest undisputed, dated historical record of ancient Nepal. 

Well, this monumental piece of archaeological evidence explicitly names three generations of his ancestors before him (Vrsadeva, Shankaradeva, and Dharmadeva), solidifying their place in real history.

Evolution of Swayambhunath Stupa: 5th Century to Modern Restorations

During the reign of King Manadeva, Swayambhunath Stupa had a simpler structure. It featured a simple hemispherical white dome and was a localized sacred site for early regional Buddhist worship.

The stupa has been restored and repaired multiple times since then with evolution, consolidation, and development in the philosophy of Buddhism. Here are some of those incidents:

Acharya Vasubandhu (5th century)

Acharya Vasubandhu is a renowned Buddhist scholar who came to Swayambhunath as a pilgrim and decided to live the rest of his life here. 

Even though he did not contribute to any structural changes in Swayambhunath Stupa, his death was mourned by building Vasubandhu Memorial Chaitya in the hill.

Rajaharsha Bhalloka Malla (14th century)

In 1349 AD, the Shamsuddin Ilyas Shah (Sultan of the Lakhnauti/Bengal Sultanate) attacked the Kathmandu Valley with around twenty thousand men and wreaked havoc. This incursion started on Magh 2.

According to an inscription found at Swayambhunath Stupa, the shrine was looted the following day of incursion, and even Pashupatinath Temple dealt considerable damage at that time.

Rajaharsha Bhalloka, a high ranking minister, noble, and military commander of Kelatchem region in Kantipur, is praised for reconstructing this Mahachaitya after the incursion. During this, the damaged central axis wooden beam (Yasin) was replaced.

Sariputra (15th Century)

The Indian Buddhist monk and abbot of Bodh Gaya, Sariputra, led the restoration of the stupa, which was noted to be in a bad condition in the 15th century. He was assisted in this endeavour by a King of the Malla dynasty. 

These restorations were likely completed by 1412 CE, so from this date we can give credit to the King Jayajyotir Malla (aka Jaya Malla) for assisting Sariputra. 

Yolmo Ngakchang Shakya Zangpo (1505 AD)

Swayambhunath Stupa underwent another major restoration in 1505 AD, where a patron named Yolmo Ngakchang Shakya Zangpo funded this restoration. While restoring, a Tibetan yogin named Tsangnyon Heruka placed the wheel and pinnacle on the top. 

Yolmo also revealed a terma concerning the Boudhanath Stupa, which he later restored.

What is Terma? They are spiritual treasures hidden by Guru Rinpoche and Yeshe Tsogyal in the earth and in the minds of disciples to be revealed at the appropriate time by ‘treasure revealers’.

Upgrades in 17th Century

Multiple enhancements to the complex of Swayambhunath were completed under the reign of King Pratap Malla. 

He commissioned the two shikhara style temples in Nepal Sambat 773 (1653 AD): Pratappur on the northern part and Anantapur on the southern part of the stupa. Pawana Bhairava shrine was also erected by him in the same year.

He then went on to establish Vajradhatu Mandala at the top of the eastern stairway on 6th Asadh of Nepal Sambat 788 (June 1667). And guess what? It was Pratap Malla who built the traditional 365 steps eastern staircase from Bhagwan Pau to the complex!

Note: At present, there are only about 312 stone steps left after facing multiple calamities and restorations. 

The 6th Zhamarpa (Chokyi Wangchuk) placed the four gilt shrines at the cardinal directions in 1614 AD. This upgrade was followed by a new pinnacle in 1694, erected by Rang-rig-raspa during the reign of King Parthivendra Malla. 

The 18th Century Restoration

Around 1750 AD, the stupa underwent another major restoration, probably after an earthquake. Several Tibetan Buddhist figures supported and funded this restoration. 

The stupa had been respected and supported by many groups in Nepal, including Shaivites, Vaishnavas, ordinary people, and kings. Since major restoration required royal permission, the Nepalese rulers also played an essential role in maintaining the stupa. 

The 20th Century Renovation

In 1918 AD, a massive renovation project began in Swayambhunath that lasted for three years (1918 to 1921). This project was executed under the strict supervision of the legendary chief engineer Jogbir Sthapit. 

Core architectural changes were made during this renovation program, such as: 

• Spire Reconstruction: Workers completely dismantled and rebuilt the upper spire of the stupa.
• Central Shaft: The vital central wooden shaft (YASIN) was entirely renewed to stabilize the structure.
• Gilded Shrines: The five Dhyani Buddha shrines set into the dome were newly covered with gilt copper.
• New Icons: A brand new statue of Vairocana Buddha was installed alongside four new shrines dedicated to the goddess Tara.
• Prayer Wheels: The row of prayer wheels was permanently installed around the stupa dome.

The present shape, design, and components of Swayambhunath are the result of this very project!

The 21st Century Renovation

Just eight years into the 21st century, another renovation project began in Swayambhunath, lasting two years (2008 AD - 2010 AD). This project was funded by the Tibetan Nyingma Meditation Center, where the metal sections and spire were restored using 20 kilograms of gold.

After dealing heavy damages from the 2015 AD Gorkha earthquake, the Swayambhu Management and Protection General Committee finished repairing 19 surrounding smaller monuments and chaityas in 2018 AD.

In 2023, repair works fixed the pinnacle structure that was damaged by the storm, and monkeys followed with 2026 AD dome maintenance.

UNESCO World Heritage Site Listing

Swayambhunath Stupa, along with six other monument zones, was officially listed in the Kathmandu Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979 AD. 

This status was given for its architectural, cultural, and spiritual significance and for being the symbol of harmony between Buddhist and Hindu traditions.

The Monkeys of Swayambhunath: Myth and Science

Even if you’re a solo traveller, you’ll get uninvited company when visiting Swayambhunath. The entire hill of Swayambhunath is filled with rhesus macaques, especially the north-western side.

You’ll find these residents along the stairway, beside the ritual pools, above the temples, literally everywhere you look! They might look cute and patient, but if threatened or teased, they won’t hesitate to attack you.

So, how in the middle of this huge city did these rhesus macaques appear?

Local legends connect these monkeys with Bodhisattva Manjusri. While Manjusri was draining Nagdaha, he was supposed to leave his hair short, but he didn’t do so. His long hair was now full of lice, which eventually transformed into the monkeys that guard the site today.

Wow, fascinating, right? From lice to monkeys, but just to be fair, let’s look at the scientific picture as well.

Rhesus macaques are native to the Kathmandu Valley's forests. This breed of monkeys is called the Old World Monkey from the Cercopithecidae family and is native to South, Central, and Southeast Asia.

They can easily live up to elevations of 4,000 meters. So, it’s no wonder they might’ve been all over the valley in ancient times. Increasing human settlements in the valley kept clearing the woodlands of the valley. With less and less forest to live in, they slowly began disappearing from the main city.

But Swayambhunath was a different case; the site was always holy and sacred, so deforestation never really had an impact here. And with pilgrims bringing food offerings, it became a paradise for these monkeys.

For decades, a stable population of roughly 425-450 rhesus macaques has been recorded in Swayambhunath.

Another resident troop of monkeys roams the Pashupatinath Temple area of Kathmandu, the most sacred Hindu site. So, from this, it's almost clear these monkeys have always been the inhabitants of Kathmandu Valley!

You’ve now learned that Swayambhunath’s design has gone through centuries of reformations and renovations before reaching the one you see today!

Every element of this stupa depicts a specific idea from Buddhist cosmology, and once you understand their meanings, you’ll appreciate it more and more!

Swayambhunath Stupa mainly consists of four main parts: dome, garva, hermica, and the thirteen-tiered spire.

The Drum (Plinth)

This is the lowest element of the stupa that functions as a mediator between the sub-structure and the foundation that separates the divine chaitya from the unclean ground. 

The Dome

Swayambhunath Stupa’s large base is a whitewashed hemispherical dome representing the entire world and the “water” element. The distinctive white surface you see comes from lime soil, locally called sakhwa. 

The sakhwa is traditionally put in water and stirred, then spread all over the dome while performing the prescribed ritual rites. This sacred maintenance tradition of coating the dome with freshly made sakhwa is done during major Buddhist festivals and ritual ceremonies.

Around the dome's base, you’ll be able to take blessings from 9 different Buddha statues while rotating the prayer wheels.

The Garva

This is the second part of the Swayambhunath Stupa, which many visitors are completely unaware of. Garva, meaning "womb," lies secretly inside the dome, and its shape as imagined in tradition is triangular. 

By the cause of air and its uplifting nature, this hidden structure is associated with air/wind and fire/heat.

The Hermica and The Buddha's Eyes

The third part of this stupa lies upon the arc (dome), and it is called Hermica. It is big and cubical in shape, denoting solidity, i.e., the earth, where people live, work, enjoy, and get freedom from salvation.

This is also the most recognizable feature of a stupa, with two enormous painted eyes on all four sides that gaze toward every cardinal direction. 

These heavy, half-closed eyes are of Buddha’s that symbolize omniscience and compassion, watching over the valley from all sides at once!

The Urna

Placed higher up between the two eyes is the urna, and its appearance is similar to a dot. The urna in Buddhist culture symbolizes spiritual awakening and the ability to look beyond ordinary sight. 

Unlike divine eyes that advanced practitioners may acquire as an inner meditative faculty, the urna is a physical feature that appears uniquely in fully awakened Buddhas. 

The Nose Symbol

Between the pair of Buddha eyes, on each face of the Hermica, is a curly symbol similar to a question mark. Many first-time visitors think of it as a stylized nose, but it’s there to represent the unity of all things in the universe.

This stylized symbol is the Nepali numeral “1” which is pronounced as “ek” and it stands for the idea that all paths ultimately lead to a single truth. Some also interpret it as there being only one way to enlightenment.

The Thirteen-Tiered Spire

These thirteen gilded circles denote the Fire element (heat/light) as it rises like a flame toward the sky.

Every circle or tier of this spire represents a discipline or precept to follow in order to attain Buddhahood. Anyone who passes the twelve precepts perfectly will arrive at the last one in a state of enlightenment.

The first ten tiers are called The Sutra Bhumis, which follow the journey of Budhha starting from Perfect Joy to the Cloud of Dharma. And the final three are from the esoteric teachings of Vajryayana tantra, depicting Universal Radiance, Lotus of Non-attachment, and finally the Vajra Holder.

These diminishing rings (or circles) are piled up with the help of a spinal wooden pillar known as YASIN. This vertical wooden pillar is the spinal cord of the monument that keeps it stable and channels cosmic energy from heaven to the earth. 

The Gajur 

Above the spire is the gold Gajur, topped by a parasol with multiple parts that are connected to each other, giving it the divine form.

The bottom half of Gajur is below the parasol consisting of myrobalan (omalaka or medicine plum) that covers the central post (yasti or yupa), which is topped by a crest jewel (usha). 

The upper half of the Gajur is above the parasol, having kalasa at the bottom and topped by a myrobalan (omalaka) vase, vase, bases and finally the flame.

The Prayer Wheels

Prayer wheels (or Mani wheels) are cylindrical wheels inscribed with the mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum” installed on a pivot. Rows of such prayer wheels made of copper completely go around the stupa’s base.

You have to spin the wheels clockwise since counter-clockwise circumambulation is considered disrespectful in Buddhism. Traditionally, it’s believed that each spin of a wheel is equivalent to reciting the mantra inscribed on it.

For this reason, you’ll see almost everyone spinning the wheels as they circumambulate the stupa in a clockwise direction. It is one of the simplest ways to engage with Buddhism and the site rather than just look at it!

After spinning all the wheels clockwise, a thought came to my mind: what does “Om Mani Padme Hum” convey? So, I found that it translates to “Praise to the Jewel in Lotus” or simply “The Jewel in the Lotus”. And when I asked a pilgrim about its meaning, he described each word of the mantra to me:

• Om: symbolizes the practitioner’s impure body and speech, as well as the pure exalted body, speech, and mind of a Buddha. 
• Mani: symbolizes the altruistic intention to become enlightened, compassion, and love. 
• Padme: symbolize wisdom that is capable of putting you in a situation of non-contradiction.
• Hum: it refers to one’s consciousness containing the perfect state of wisdom and method together as one indivisible whole.

It’s not always that you come across a site that follows different religions at once. As soon as you reach Swayambhunath, you’ll see the harmony of Hinduism and Buddhism. 

Several traditions coexist here, including Newar and Tibetan Buddhism alongside Hinduism.

Priests from different traditions still perform their own rituals next to each other to please their deities. You’ll see festivals from both religions marked on this same hill with pilgrims of every religion or background climbing the same steps. 

You don’t explain the religious importance in Swayambhunath, you travel there and experience it with your own senses!

Newar Buddhism

Newar Buddhism is a branch of Vajrayana Buddhism, or Tantric Buddhism practiced by the Newar community, especially inside the valley. Some of the popular Newar castes following this Buddhism are ritual Buddhist priests, Shakya and Bajracharya.

Historically and scripturally, Vajracharyas hold the highest ritual status and are considered the primary custodians of esoteric tantric knowledge. They act as the Purohits (hereditary family priests) for the wider Newar Buddhist community and perform public rituals for others. 

Shakyas traditionally hold the rank of temple caretakers, artisans, and monks (Bhikshus), performing domestic rituals primarily for their own lineages.

These people have done a great job in preserving the Mahayana manuscripts in Sanskrit, which draws a lot of international pilgrims to Nepal in search of knowledge.

For the Newar Buddhists in Kathmandu Valley, Swayambhunath is the most sacred Buddhist site. The Swayambhu Purana sits at the centre of their cosmology, and daily rituals around the stupa are conducted following the traditions written in this sacred book. 

Another great feat of Newar Buddhists is that they are counted among great artisans known for their superior skills in Buddhist artworks and monuments. If you take a closer look at the geometry of Swayambhunath, you’ll see that each one of the Panchabuddhas is assigned a particular direction.

This shows how these people blend tradition with art, which is the reason why their paubha paintings, monument designs, statues, and almost every art and craft are appreciated around the globe. 

Tibetan Buddhism

Tibetan Buddhism beautifully synthesizes the philosophical foundations of Mahayana Buddhism with the advanced tantric methodologies of Vajrayana Buddhism. For practitioners of Tibetan Buddhism, Swayambhunath ranks the most important Buddhist site after Boudhanath. 

The Vajradhatu Mandala and the Great Vajra atop it are the best examples of Vajrayana Buddhism tradition in Swayambhunath. And Mahayana is practised in the Karam Raja Mahavihar. 

There are multiple records of Tibetan Buddhists funding the restoration and renovation projects of Swayambhunath. The site’s connection to hidden termas, spiritual treasures, and tantric masters like Guru Rinpoche and Yolmo Ngakchang Shakya Zangpo shows how Tibetan Buddhism has coexisted with Newar Buddhism for centuries.

Hinduism

The site’s profound integration with Hinduism is beautifully displayed through shrines dedicated to Ganesh, Bhairava, and the goddess Harati (worshipped by Hindus as Sitala Mai). 

Along with that, there’s a prominent hilltop shrine revered simultaneously as the Hindu goddess Saraswati and the Buddhist Bodhisattva Manjushri.

Buddhism is the most dominant religion in Swayambhunath, yet the priests and locals here never removed the Hindu monuments; rather, they embraced and co-existed. You’ll see the same level of appreciation and respect towards Buddhism in Pashupatinath Temple as well, which is dedicated to Shaivism.

The massive white dome with a glittering gold spire and a pair of Buddha’s eyes surrounded by prayer flags is the centerpiece of the whole premise. 

Still, the premise of this stupa is filled with shrines, monasteries, statues, and other attractions regarded by different religions. 

Each of them has a unique story to offer and displays its significance in Buddhist and Hindu heritages.

Harati Ajima Temple

Just behind the main stupa (if you’re climbing the eastern staircase) stands the temple dedicated to female deity, Harati. She is associated with smallpox and the protection of children in Hindu tradition.

A story unfolds about Harati, mentioning she once was a demoness who devoured children until Buddha’s interference, converting her into their protector. Devotees and many mothers visit Harati Maa Temple seeking health blessings for their children.

This is a two story pagoda-style temple with a black statue of the deity on the ground. Only the priest is allowed inside the temple, so you have to pray and offer your offerings from the temple door!

Note: Taking photographs and videos of this temple is strictly forbidden.

Pratappur and Anantapur

King Pratap Malla commissioned two tall shikhara-style temples flanking the eastern side of Swayambhunath, with Pratappur located to the northeast and Anantapur to the southeast. He named the northeastern monument after himself as Pratappur and the southeastern monument after his most beloved queen’s name, Ananta Priya.

According to Rajbhogmala, King Pratap Malla felt that Swayambhunath Stupa standing by itself in the premises, was not majestic enough. So, he decided to build these two temples but was not permitted by Lord Swayambhunath at first. 

He then forcefully closed all the temples in the premises for six months, which finally got him the permit for construction. 

You’ll be admiring just the architecture of these temples as they are opened only for special rituals.

If you look beneath Anantapur Temple, there’s a stone inscription by King Pratap Malla, where he has composed a eulogy dedicated to Ekjata Vajrayogini in traditional Jatimungara poetic meter. It also states that both temples were completed with a proper consecration.

Anantapur is protected by two fierce tantric gatekeepers: crow-faced (Kakasya) and owl-faced (Ulukasya), whereas Pratappur has two garuda statues in front of its door.

Both temples have been rebuilt more than once after being damaged from fire, lightning, and earthquake.

The Great Vajra and the Vajradhatu Mandala

Complete the climbing of 312 stone steps of the eastern staircase and you’ll stand right in front of the Great Vajra with two stone lions protecting it!

It sits on a big metal disc with symbols and geometrical patterns called the Vajradhatu Mandala. And the mandala itself is also mounted on a round stone slab engraved with the twelve animals of the Tibetan calendar.

In Vajrayana Buddhism, Vajra represents compassion and wisdom, realizing the bliss of emptiness. That is why the accomplished masters of Vajrayana Buddhism regard this symbol as the dharma instrument. 

Many pilgrims are seen touching the Great Vajra, believing it transfers protective spiritual energy to them.

Pawan Bhairava

In front of the Karmaraja Mahavihar is a small east facing shrine. This Gandhakuti style shrine was built by King Pratap Malla in the same year as Pratappur and Anantapur.

Inside the shrine is a stone image of Pawan Bhairava with his consort in the blissful posture (sukhasana). The image of Pawan Bhairava is described further as follows:

• He has one face with three eyes and four arms, with his first pair of hands holding a chopper (vajrakartri) and a skull, whereas his second set of hands holds a trident and a skull-staff. 
• His appearance is terrific, and he is bedecked with ornaments of serpents, wears a garland of severed heads, and rides upon a corpse.
• His consort has one face and two hands and is seen sitting on his lap in a playful pose (lalitasana).

Pawan Bhairava is associated with a folklore that disrespecting him will bring famine and disaster, unleashing terrifying thunder in clear skies. 

And if you confess your sins and worship him with utmost respect, then he would immediately cause rainfall and thunderstorms!

Dewa Dharma Gumba

Established in 1780 AD during the reign of King Rana Bahadur Shah, this historic monastery was originally founded by a Bhutanese Lama of the Drukpa Kagyu lineage. After a fire destroyed the structure around 1800 AD, it was completely rebuilt with financial aid from a Sikkim Queen.

It’s known for the bronze Buddha image and holds a collection of traditional paintings.

The gumba functions as a place of worship and meditation rather than a showpiece like a museum. It is behind the pillar with a peacock on top, and you have to walk up to the second floor using the stairs outside to enter inside.

To date, the administration of this gumba lies totally under Sikkimi Lamas, and they don't charge any extra for entering the gumba!

Panchapur

Swayambhunath Stupa is surrounded by five small shrines that are positioned around the stupa. It is believed Shatikar Acharya built these shrines in order to protect Swayambhunath from various forces of nature.

Thus, each one of these shrines is associated with one of the five classical elements: sky, fire, earth, wind, and water.

Shantipur

If you walk a couple of stairs down towards the north-west side of the main stupa, then there’s a single story mysterious house. The shrine here represents the sky element and is one of the best kept secrets!

Shantipur’s temple has only one story, but there’s a cave here with three underground layers, and the whole temple is completely forbidden to enter for any general public. You have to be blessed with tantric skills under Vajrayana Buddhism to enter inside.

Shantipur is connected with many folklores, such as Shantikar Acharya still meditating deep inside the cave and a tantric book written with the blood of serpents that, when brought out during a drought in the valley, will bring rain.

King Pratap Malla is believed to have ventured deep into the cave to retrieve the book in order to free the valley from drought. After successfully fulfilling his mission, the book was returned back, and it has never been brought out again.

Agnipur

Placed at the northwest corner of the premises, which traditionally represents the Vayu (Air) direction in classical placement, is a small shrine named Agnipur, dedicated to the fire element.

Consecrated by Guru Shantikar Acharya to shield the hill from fire-related disasters, this easily accessible open-air shrine is guarded by two stone lions. 

It features a distinctive dome structure painted with the three-eyed face of Agni Bhairava (representing the fire element), intentionally placed in this specific direction to symbolize air blowing upon and feeding the fire.

Nagpur

Also known as Patalpur, this shrine represents the water element and is in front of Amoghasiddhi Buddha. It's a small closed sacred pool with metal bars and diyos on all four sides.

Nagpur is considered a tribute to the serpents who lived in Nagdaha and has a very important relation with Lochani. 

When it's hot, the monkeys here swim in this pool, showing some amazing diving skills.

Vasupur

Behind Anantapur in the south-east corner of the premises is a temple of Vasundhara, and there resides the shrine of Vasupur, the Earth element.

This temple also has wooden struts like many Newari style temples do, but the struts here have names of the individuals: Mani Bhadra, Dhanendra, Vaisranam, Chibikundakti, Keli Mali, Sukhendra, and Chakendra. 

In front of Vasupur is Mamaki, the symbol of the water element, and their relation displays the action and interaction relationship between Earth and Water, which makes heat and then evaporation (air).

Vayupur

Vayupur represents the air (wind) element and physically sits in the southwest corner of the premises. This placement is highly unique because the southwest direction typically represents the earth element in classical architecture, while the traditional "Air" cardinal quadrant is at the northwest corner.

This deliberate shift serves a distinct cosmic purpose: Vayupur is positioned directly facing the shrine of Pandara (also locally called Padmani or Padhmani Tara), who governs the element of fire and heat. 

Mirroring the natural laws of physics, where fire relies on a constant current of air to burn and sustain life, Vayupur directly breathes upon the fire quadrant to keep the universe's life-giving energies dynamically balanced and moving.

Dipankara Buddha

A few steps northwest from the Harati Maa Temple is a standing Buddha statue dating back to the 7th century. The statue depicts Dipankara Buddha (the Buddha of Light), who is revered as one of the ancient Buddhas of the past who achieved enlightenment long before Gautama Buddha.

The standing Buddha design is known as Devavtara in Nepal, and Dipankara Buddha’s Devavtara is the tallest in Swayambhunath.

For your knowledge, the statue of Buddha on the bench you see is called Maitri Bodhisattva.

Shree Karma Raja Mahavihar

Built in the year 2010 BS (1954 AD), Shree Karma Raja Mahavihar is an active monastery located on the northern edge of the main stupa platform. 

I had not covered the deer and wheel-like symbol above the entrance or on the roof of the monastery while talking about Dewa Dharma Gumba, so I’ll be explaining them here.

The symbol is called the Dharmachakra, or the Wheel of Dharma, and it represents the three higher trainings on the path to liberation. The hub represents higher training in ethics (moral discipline), the spokes represent analytical wisdom, and the rim represents concentration.

As for the two deer, they represent compassion and peacefulness.

Taking off your footwear and turning off your cameras before entering the monastery is mandatory; make sure you don't forget this.

Inside the monastery are gold-plated Buddha and lineage master statues with their names and descriptions written in Tibetan and Ranjana scripts. Rows of traditional butter lamps are lit continuously by visiting pilgrims, and there’s a donation box for anyone who wants to support the monastery.

If you’re looking for a place to learn and practice Tibetan Vajrayana discourse (specifically within the Karma Kagyu lineage), then this monastery is perfect for you in Swayambhunath!

The surroundings of Swayambhunath are always cheerful and full of life, but when there’s a major festival, the celebration just takes the atmosphere to a whole new level. 

Losar

Losar is the new year for most Buddhist communities, and depending on the lunar calendar, it falls in different months. In Nepal, majorly three variations of Losar are celebrated.

Tamu Losar is celebrated by the Gurung community, Gyalpo Losar by Sherpa and Tibetan communities, and Sonam Losar by Tamang and Hyolmo communities. Swayambhunath celebrates Gyalpo Losar and Sonam Losar, but pilgrims can be seen offering prayers during Tamu Losar as well.

Gyalpo Losar

Gyalpo Losar is celebrated in February or March for 15 days, with the first three days holding the most significant events. Swayambhunath is thoroughly cleaned and decorated with new prayer flags to sweep away remnants of previous year’s misfortunes and welcome auspicious energy for the new year.

On the first day of Gyalpo Losar, people of Sherpa and Tibetan communities wear their traditional attire and visit Swayambhunath in the morning to offer prayers, light butter lamps, and get blessings for the upcoming year. 

The following day is dedicated to socializing, visiting relatives and friends, eating traditional delicacies, and offering prayers to the departed loved ones. The third day draws communities in the Swayambhunath complex for rituals that honor their protective deity!

On this day, the monasteries here are full of pilgrims and monks chanting sacred mantras.

The remaining days are followed by monasteries holding special prayer assemblies, extended social visits, and other cultural celebrations.

Interesting Fact: In the Himalayan region, most communities are Tibetan, so despite their ethnicity, they celebrate Gyalpo Losar. For instance, in the upper Langtang Valley, the people are mostly Tamangs, and they celebrate this Losar.

Sonam Losar

Tamang and Hyolmo communities celebrate Sonam Losar starting on the day following the first new moon of the Nepali month of Magh (typically falling between late January and mid-February). The festival is celebrated traditionally for three to seven days!

Similar to Gyalpo, Sonam Losar in Swayambhunath is filled with pilgrims of Tamang and Hyolmo communities offering prayers, lighting the butter lamps, rotating the prayer wheels, and chanting sacred mantras.

Traditional dresses, small dance performances, and echoing monk chants can be observed in Swayambhunath premises during this festival.

Buddha Jayanti (Buddha Purnima)

Celebrated on full moon day of April or May, Buddha Jayanti marks the birth, enlightenment, and death of Lord Sidhhartha Gautam Buddha. This festival is a religious event for people of different communities to come together and promote peace, harmony, and Buddha teachings. 

Buddha Jayanti is the busiest day of the year in Swayambhunath. The number of monks and pilgrims here is overwhelmingly high during this festival. Government officials, Buddhist monks, religious leaders, members of the diplomatic community, and travellers from various countries have schedules to attend many events at Swayambhunath.

The dome is white-washed, and the pattern of lotus flower is repainted in Buddha Jayanti, giving Swayambhunath a revamped look.

If you want to observe the sacred relic of Buddha, then visit Anandakuti Vihar of Swayambhunath during this festival, where it is displayed for public viewing and worship.

And if you’re on a photography tour or someone who wants to feel the spiritual weight of Swayambhunath, then Buddha Jayanti is a perfect day for your visit!

Saga Dawa

Saga Dawa is the fourth month of the Tibetan lunar calendar, and for Tibetan Buddhists it is the holiest month of the year. It usually falls between May and June. 

In Tibetan, “Saga” is the name of a star seen in the sky around this time, and “Dawa” means "month." The belief behind it is that the Buddha’s birth, enlightenment, and death all happened in this one month, so any good deed done during it is multiplied many times over!

So, while Buddha Jayanti is a single, very crowded day, Saga Dawa is a whole month at Swayambhunath. The 15th day, known as Saga Dawa Duchen, is the main day and the busiest, but the stupa is active throughout the month!

The main activity here is kora, the clockwise walk around a sacred site. At Swayambhunath, the elderly devotees often start as early as 3 am, walking slowly up from their homes for morning prayers.

By late morning, many more pilgrims have arrived to circle the stupa, some along the outer Swayambhu Parikrama path and others along the inner path, spinning the prayer wheels as they pass.

Kora is not the only practice during this month. Many Tibetans avoid eating meat, give to the poor, and light butter lamps in large numbers, and some also take part in tsethar, the practice of releasing animals that were destined for slaughter. 

If you want to join the kora, I suggest going in the early morning. It is quieter, and you will see the most devoted pilgrims at that hour. Walk clockwise like everyone else, keep to the side so the older pilgrims can pass, and do not touch the prayer wheels with your left hand (or against the direction of the spin).

Gunla

Gunla is a month-long Newar Buddhist festival, usually falling in August or September. This festival involves devotees visiting Swayambhunath Stupa every morning and performing circumambulations around the area. 

Necessary preparations for the festival in Swayambhunath that happens are ensuring the security of devotees, managing crowds, maintaining cleanliness, repainting, and organising street lighting. 

Around 500,000 followers from both domestic and international countries are expected in Swayambhunath during this month-long festival!

In Nepal Bhasa, "Gun" means ninth and "La" means month, marking its position as the ninth month of the Nepal Sambat lunar calendar. Devotees usually start their journey early in the morning, often before sunrise, accompanied by a unique musical procession called ‘Gunla Bajan’. 

Many devotees recite various religious scriptures such as ‘Dafa Bhajan’, ‘Nasancha Bhajan', and ‘Gyanmala Bhajan’ during their visit to Swayambhunath in Gunla. Although the origin of this festival is not clear, it is believed to have been commonly practicing this since the era of Buddha.

On the last day of Gunla, devotees, Gunla Bajan khala (those who performed Gunla Bajan) and Bhajan Khala (those who recite sutras and Bhajans) gather at Swayambhu to offer their prayers and worship.

The festival comes to an end with Paru Bwoye, the grand feast to mark the conclusion of this holy festival. Newari food items like Samay Baji, Alu Tama, Juju Dhau, etc., with beverages such as Aila and Thwon are consumed in this feast.

Samyak Mahadan

The festival of Dipankar Buddha, or Samyak Mahadan, is celebrated every 12 years in Kathmandu, every 5 years in Patan, and annually in Bhaktapur. The festival is organized to honor Dipankara Buddha, who predicted Lord Sakyamuni Buddha’s enlightenment. 

On this day, many Shakya Sthavirs, Dipankar Buddhas, and deities like Shri Ganesha and Shri Bhairava residing in Mahavihars and Bahas across Kathmandu are honored. 

The Dipankar Buddha procession in Kathmandu starts from Maha Boudha and passes through Tyod, Inbahal, Kamalakshi, and Bhotahiti and reaches Asan Dabali, where the special puja is commenced!

Most recently the festival was held on 29th July 2026 after not being held for 24 years! The organizers have given their word to remind the public about this historic procession every 12 years from now on!

Temal Jatra

Temal Jatra is a festival celebrated by the Tamang community, but the festival itself is not restricted to this ethnic group only. The origin of this festival has two myths.

One myth connects with the myth of Swayambhunath and goes like this: the festival originated when Kathmandu Valley was still a lake. After the divine light came to existence, figures such as Sikhi Buddha, Bipaswi Buddha, Manjushree, Kanak Muni Buddha, and Kahashya Buddha, along with many other practitioners of Buddhism, came to Swayambhunath and Boudhanath Stupa to witness this event. 

Another myth follows a demon named Temal living in the forest of Kavrepalanchowk district who was the harbinger of disasters, which troubled the Tamang people a lot. The demon is believed to have been defeated by a Tamang warrior named Paruhang with help from gods.

Temal Jatra is celebrated the day before this festival in Boudhanath Stupa by offering Nangsal (memory butter lamps), bows, and expressing wishes, and chanting. Traditional dances and songs like Pharpare Geet are also performed during this festival!

On the next morning, people travel to Swayambhunath Stupa from Boudhanath Stupa via the route of Nagarjuna and perform similar rituals.

Kojagrata Poornima: The Last Day of Dashain

On the fifteenth day of the Dashain festival, Kojagrata Poornima is celebrated by worshipping and paying homage to Mahalaxmi. There is a belief following this festival that the goddess takes a trip around the world to see who observes the vigil at night. 

As per this belief, devotees worship the goddess at their homes in the evening and keep vigil the whole night on this day. 

Devotees gather at the Swayambhunath to worship and observe an overnight vigil on this night and honor the full moon while seeking blessings for prosperity. 

If you have finished exploring the main complex of Swayambhunath and are wondering where should I go or what should I see next, then don’t worry; I got you covered! These are some of the best places to visit in and around Swayambhunath. 

World Peace Pond

Just below the main complex of Swayambhunath Stupa is the entrance from western gate, and it's called World Peace Pond (aka Statue of Peace). It gets its name from a small pond with a standing Buddha statue. 

The pond is surrounded by the Big Bell and Vasubandhu Chaitya, along with benches to take a peaceful rest. 

The Vasubandhu Chaitya here was built to mourn the death and preserve the relics of Acharya Vasubandhu, a Buddhist monk from India. The Big Bell with Tibetan inscription in front of the chaitya dates back to the 18th century and was offered by the 10th Shamarpa of Tibet. 

Note: You’ll may see people throwing coins and cash in the pond, but make sure you don't follow or support this activity.

Buddha Amideva Park

Roughly a 15 minute walk from the stupa to the bottom of the hill in the south-western direction is a park with huge statues of Shakyamuni Buddha, four-armed Chenresig, and Guru Rinpoche. 

There are two lamp offering rooms in this park; one near the entrance and another on the north-western part. If visited in the morning, you’ll find multiple monks chanting matras and performing rites, which you are allowed to participate in!

This is a religious sanctuary for locals and many domestic as well as international visitors in Swayambhunath, making it a good nearby attraction to cover in your half-day and full-day visit.

Ananda Kuti Vihar

This vihar is nestled in the western part of the hill and stands as a testament to the revival of Theravada Buddhism in Nepal. Carrying the aim of conserving Buddha teachings, culture, and meditation, this monastery was started in 1943 AD.

Everyday, Ananda Kuti Vihar opens from 5:00 AM to 10:00 PM and doesn’t charge any entrance fee. There’s a huge courtyard with a small house showcasing big statues of Buddha. 

North of the courtyard is a huge white chaitya with a small golden gajur. If you look around, you’ll see a statue of Buddha in the open air with monkeys guarding it.

Viewpoints for Sunrise, Sunset, and Mountain Views in Swayambhunath

The eastern sections near the Great Vajra offer the classic sunrise view over a panoramic view of Kathmandu Valley. 

For sunset, you’ll have to either climb up the roofs of restaurants and cafes in the complex or reach the western side near the vehicle entrance.

During spring and summer, the haze in the valley limits your visibility, so the most you’ll see are the valley view and hills!

On clear days (mostly after the monsoon), the view extends to distant Himalayan peaks, prominently the Langtang, Jugal, and the Ganesh Himal range.

Several museums have been established to preserve and display our history, art, and tradition. If you’re in or near Swayambhunath, then here are some of the detour worthy museums.

Swayambhu Buddhist Museum 

This is a small museum within the stupa complex holding many statues of historic figures, gods, and goddesses. There is not any explanation regarding the statues, so if you’re travelling solo, then you’ll be just looking at them!

That is why I suggest you take a guide for this visit if you want to know more about these as well as other things in Swayambhunath. There is no entry fee for any national in this museum; you just walk in, take a look, and move on!

Note: The museum stays open from either 9 AM or 10 AM in the morning till 5 PM or 5:30 PM in the evening.

Natural History Museum 

Established in 1975 under the management of Tribhuvan University's Institute of Science and Technology, this museum holds Nepal's flora, fauna, fungi, fossils, and much more. It is situated on the lap of the Swayambhunath stupa and welcomes both domestic and international visitors.

Main attractions of this museum are:

• Two-headed snake
• Molar teeth and skull of Archidiskodon (3 to a million years old)
• Molar teeth of Sivapithecus (11 million years old)
• Embryos of different species
• Female piglet with one head and two bodies
• An eight-legged female kid
• A four-legged chick
• Atlas moth
• Endangered and extinct specimens
• Egg laid by a cock

Entry Fee

Note: The museum is inside Swoyambhu Environmental Park and is open from Sunday to Friday.

National Museum of Nepal

About 1.5 km from the western entrance gate of Swayambhunath Stupa is the country's first museum, preserving Nepal's artistic, cultural, and historical legacy. 

The site was the private residence of Bhimsen Thapa (first Prime Minister of Nepal) in 1819 AD. and later repurposed it into an arsenal storehouse (Chhauni Silkhana) in 1824 AD. 

It was converted into the National Museum in 1968, which is now run under the Department of Archaeology.

The complex of this museum has three main wings:

Other Nearby Museums

Near the National Museum of Nepal in Chhauni are the Military Museum and the National Numismatic Museum. Both these museums are great sources of knowledge, so if you’re in Chhauni, then try to check out these museums as well.

Here’s a gist of what these museums showcase:

Note: The entry fees for the three museums are separate!

Paubha Paintings are the indigenous Newari art form of the Kathmandu valley, which is used for both Hindu and Buddhist subjects. These depict the deities and mandalas of Hindu and Buddhist traditions.

Thangka was developed within Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and focuses strictly on Vajrayana Buddhist philosophy, lamas, and deities. You might be surprised to learn this, but Tibetan Thangka owes its blueprint to Newari Paubha paintings. 

Yes, that’s right, in the early 14th century, Newari artists visited Tibet and taught their methods to monasteries like Shalu, Sakya, and Ngor. 

So both are drawn in canvas, but what is the main difference? Here they are: 

• Color differences: Newari paintings have a dark blue, black, and indigo background, making the maroon and red colors shine like neon, whereas Thangkas have more lighter color choices.
• Iconography and sacred proportions: Iconographic rules are similar, but they are separated by subtle differences in the proportions of deities, symbolic elements, and compositions.
• Rituals and techniques: Paubha begins with prayers and cleansing rituals while Thangka follows the Tibetan Buddhist consecration practices.

Boudhanath is the biggest hub for Tibetan Buddhism, while Newar Vajrayana Buddhism is the most dominant one in Swayambhunath. This brings slight differences in the Thangka paintings between Boudhanath and Swayambhunath.

In Newar Vajrayana Buddhism found in Swayambhunath, you’ll see Thangkas that feature imagery from non-Tibetan lineages and focus more towards universal tantric mandalas and yoga geometrics. 

On the other hand, Tibetan Thangkas strictly follow the Tibetan artistic canons and the iconography of Lamas and deities tied to Tibetan monasteries.

The streets leading up to the stupa and the main complex are full of Nepali foods and drinks. There aren’t any special or particular dishes found in Swayambhunath only, but the majority of the dishes here revolve around Newari and Tibetan culture.

Here are the best options to try:

• Mo:Mo: Steamed, boiled, fried, sizzled, almost every corner in Swayambhunath area serves Mo:Mo. These are seasoned meat or vegetable stuffed dumplings served with soup or gravy. Eating Mo:Mo in Nepal is a tradition for all international visitors, so if you haven’t tried it in other parts of the country, let Swayambhu serve you! 
• Sel roti: This dish serves as an everyday breakfast item for locals and is consumed a lot during rituals and occasions. It is a ring-shaped, slightly sweet doughnut made from rice flour. You’ll find Sel Roti all around Swayambhunath in stalls and hotels.
• Lassi: This is a yogurt-based drink to refresh your mind and body during hot days. You get the option to choose a medium portion of Lassi costing around NPR 60 or a large portion costing around NPR 100 in Swayambhunath area. 
• Keema noodles: Himalayan fusion dish rooted in Tibetan and Chinese culinary traditions, this dish has become very popular in recent years. College students and couples prefer to eat it as their lunch. This is a noodle dish topped with fried minced meat and sauce (mostly spicy).
• Laphing: It is a spicy and cold plain flour noodle dish in Tibetan cuisine wrapping raw noodles, chips, and tofu and garnished with chili oil, soy sauce, vinegar, etc. The most popular variants of this dish would be Dry Laphing, Soup Laphing and Mix Laphing.

Swayambhunath is open 24/7, but the ticket counters and monasteries have fixed opening and closing hours. 

Most visitors who have to buy a ticket come between 7 AM and 5 PM. Arriving early offers a beautiful morning view of the valley with very few people in the complex!

You have two options to reach the complex: either the eastern 312 stone steps stairway or the western vehicle gate. Both of these entry points have a ticket counter, so make sure you get one before entering and keep a hold of your ticket.

As mentioned earlier, there are mainly two routes to visit Swayambhunath, and each one offers a different experience. 

If you ask me which route to choose, then I would suggest planning the route depending on what kind of visit you are organizing to Swayambhunath.

Normally, visitors fall into three groups: a quick short sightseeing, half-day visit covering all major attractions, and a full-day outing covering the major and almost every nearby attraction.

Swayambhunath’s specialty is that it rewards a quick visit also, but honestly I think it is not enough to cover everything this historic site has to offer. So, I would recommend you plan for a longer visit!

Still, I have personally prepared this walking tour to give you a clear idea and path for your visit even if it's a quick one.

Short Visit

If you only have an hour or two to spare, then the most efficient approach is to use the western entrance. Take a vehicle directly to Swayambhunath’s parking area, and you’ll be right in front of the western ticket counter. 

The entry fee of this heritage site is way cheaper in comparison to Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, Bhaktapur Durbar Square, and other UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Entering the Site

Once you get your ticket, pass through the World Peace Pond. If you head to your left, then you’ll reach Maha Manjushree Stupa, but since time is of the essence, it's better to head to climb the stairs!

Taking the right staircase from Peace Pond leads you directly to the complex of Swayambhunath Stupa. The complex has three viewpoints: two on the eastern part divided by the 312 steps stone stairway and one on the southern part.

Exploring the Main Complex

As soon as you reach the complex, I recommend you start your circumambulation of the main stupa from the statue of Amitabha, which is in front of the peacock pillar. While rotating the prayer wheels, walk clockwise and you’ll cover all nine Buddha statues!

From here onwards, you can try to cover some of the major attractions in the complex before heading to take a good look at Kathmandu Valley. 

If I were you with not much time in hand, I would still try to enter the Swoyambhu Buddhist Museum and Dewa Dharma Monastery, which are close to one another, followed up by taking blessings from Harati Ajima Temple. 

Shrines and Souvenirs

From the temple, now, walk north-east towards the Karma Raja Mahavihar Monastery to offer your prayers, and if luck favors, observe the monkeys swimming in Nagpur (a small sacred pool). 

If you want to shop for some souvenirs from Swayambhunath, then walk up to the Vajra and search for your preference while checking out Pawan Bhairava’s temple, The Twin Temples, Vasundhara Temple, and a shrine of the air element (Vayupur) protecting Swayambhunath.

Concluding the Tour: What Next?

Once you are done in the complex, take the northern stairway down towards Shantipur while observing the statues and thangkas and then back to the World Peace Pond. 

Swayambhunath has a lot of other attractions as well, like the Manjusri Temple, Buddha Park, Natural History Museum, and White Gumba, even the eastern stairway has magnificent sculptures and statues. If you want to cover all of these, then see if you can extend your visit.

Half-Day Trip

Taking a half day just for the Swayambhunath tour opens a lot of areas to cover, which is not possible in a quick visit. Now that we have enough time on our hands, let’s climb the 312 steps of the eastern stairway.

Ascending the Eastern Stairway

Start your walk from Bhagwan Pau, taking pictures and short breaks near the Buddha statues. Once you’re halfway, the stairway becomes almost ninety degrees!

Before you reach the top, walk towards the ticket counter on your left. 

I also recommend starting your journey in the morning. This'll let you get a better view of Kathmandu Valley as soon as you reach the top. 

My suggestion is that you finish the circumambulation of the stupa first. Start from the statue of Akshovya and Vairochan in front of the Great Vajra Dhatu Mandala. Make sure you walk clockwise since it's inappropriate to walk counter-clockwise while circumambulating in Buddhist culture. The exact opposite is in Bon religion, practised in some parts of Nepal like Dolpo.

After you finish your circumambulation at the starting point, take blessings from the Vajra and start your sightseeing of all major attractions in the complex. 

Then, check out the twin temples: Pratappur and Anantapur, then Vasupur (earth element). You may enter Vasupur, as it is not restricted, unlike other temples here. 

Navigating the Western Perimeter 

Now, walk towards the western entry point of the complex while checking out some souvenirs. Before you reach the western staircase, you’ll see a small shrine of Vayupur and the famous museum of Swayambhunath.

Afterwards, walk north and ascend a small staircase to enter the Dewa Dharma Monastery. For a half-day visit, meditating here is not practical, so it's better to take a quick look and walk north again to receive blessings from Harati Maa Temple. 

Monasteries and Morning Breaks 

Another monastery of the complex is right next to one of The Twin Temples (Pratappur); take off your footwear and enter to offer your prayers. You may take a short break drinking a beverage befitting the season or eating Yomari as a breakfast in one of the cafes of the complex before continuing your tour!

Ready to walk again? Let’s start observing the statues and thangka paintings as we walk in the north-west direction. You’ll see century old statues like the Abhayamudra, Devankara, and many more. 

Tracing the Ancient Elements 

After observing the tall standing Buddha statue, I suggest checking out the north-western corner of the complex for our fourth element, Agnipur.

We are done in the complex, so let’s walk down the stairs to reach our other destinations in Swayambhunath. We covered the four elements, right? But here in Swayambhunath we have one more - the element of sky. 

Exploring Shantipur and the Peace Pond 

Rather than taking the stairs next to Agnipur, walk east and from there take the stairs. Doing this will take you straight to Shantipur. You can take blessings from the priest there, but be careful of stray dogs. 

When I went to take pictures of the group of chaityas beside Shatipur, I was growled at by a pack of stray dogs. I don’t want to scare you by saying that the same will happen to you; just a small caution, especially to those walking solo!

Okay! Now, let’s walk down to the Peace Pond, and as its name suggests, it really is peaceful here. People on walks rest here; those who are on a short visit enter from this site, and monkeys can be seen playing near the artificial waterfall.

The Final Stretch: Maha Manjushree Stupa 

Unfortunately, we don't have the luxury to take a peaceful rest here since we have to cover our final destination, i.e., Maha Manjushree Stupa. 

Walk up the stairs beside the waterfall towards the jungle and you’ll find Kashyap Stupa with monkeys taking naps. There are no extra turns from Kashyap Stupa to Wochen Thukje Choiling Monastery. 

Opposite of this monastery is the Maha Manjushree Stupa, guarded by big stone lions. Most of the visitors never make it here, so it’s pretty much empty compared to our main stupa and Peace Pond. 

With this, our half-day visit to Swayambhunath comes to an end, and this exact route can be followed in the opposite way with slight changes. Take the western entrance and go to Maha Manjushree Stupa first, then to Swayambhunath Stupa.

This slower pace suits our Kathmandu Buddhist Tour and Nepal Buddhist Tour itineraries, built to give time for prayer and reflection!

Full-Day Trip via the Eastern Entrance

Giving a full day to Swayambhunath is one of the best ways to connect with Buddhism as well as Hinduism. Once you complete this full-day tour, I guarantee that you’ll see big changes in your perspective of seeing things.

The Morning Ascent

You have to climb the eastern stairway in the morning (if your knees allow), while breathing in the fresh air amidst the city. You’ll see sculptures showing history and cultural significance as you walk up the stairs. 

The statues of Buddha, Garud, Peacock, Horse, Elephant, and Lion here show how Nepal has always been rich in art and crafts along with traditions and cultures!

Unlike the aforementioned half-day visit, you can spend a couple of unhurried hours exploring the stupa complex and its shrines. My suggestion is to give enough time to almost every major attraction in the complex.

Monastic Immersions and Local Art

Take your time inside the museum. Each of the statues you see there has its own story!

Enter the monastery, then don't just offer your prayers and move on; sit down for a short meditation as you inhale the smell of Sang (a type of incense) and hear the chanting of monks. 

Explore hidden areas in the complex (like handicraft shops) that have been crafting authentic handicrafts for generations! Observing the painting process of Thangka will increase your respect for this art.

A full-day trip makes it possible to experience everything I have written in this section. 

Transition to the Peace Pond and Beyond

After exploring the main complex and Shantipur, now enter the Peace Pond. Take a short break on the benches around the pond while observing the monkeys, tourists, locals, and their behaviours. 

Finish off the exploration of Swayambhunath with Kashyap Stupa, Wochen Thekju Choiling Monastery, and Maha Manjushree Stupa. 

When walking around the yard filled with chaityas and prayer flags over your head, an inexpressible spiritual relief fills your heart and mind.

Detours and Nearby Sanctuary Attractions

Let’s finish exploring Swayambhunath by visiting either the Natural History Museum or Amideva Buddha Park, or maybe both! From here, we can do multiple optional activities depending on your preference. 

Here are some of the options:

• If you want to explore more of the spiritual and religious significance, then you have options to visit the White Gumba (Druk Amitabha Monastery), Chaitya Gumba (View Tower), or Ichangu Narayan Temple.
• For visitors who are more keen on discovering and exploring natural spots, the Single Tree or Batashe Dada might be your best destination. More on them later!
• And if you feel like wanting to learn more about our history, then you should check out the National Museum of Nepal in Chhauni.

Alternative Hiking Route Plan

Before I end this route plan, let me explain another way of doing a full-day Swayambhunath visit. 

This plan starts with a hike to Jamacho Gumba and the hilltop monastery, followed by Amideva Buddha Park and then Swayambhunath Stupa from the western entrance.

Taking this route will have you explore Swayambhunath in the late afternoon, allowing you to join the locals in singing Bhajan (devotional hymn).

Here are a few things I wish I had known before visiting Swayambhunath. None of these are disasters, but they’re the small things that make a huge difference. 

I will give you suggestions on which entry point to choose, how to act around the people and monkeys, where to stop and where to not, the time for devotional hymns, etc.

I’m sure these tips will make your trip smoother and better than mine!

Best Time to Visit

• October to December and March to April are by far the best months for you if you’re planning for valley viewing with clear sky and mountain ranges.
• Early morning is the most recommended time for a quiet religious heritage visit and sunrise above the panoramic valley.
• If you’re planning to visit Swayambhunath for the night vigil, then make your plans from 5 PM itself. This’ll get you a sunset light to add to your memories and an opportunity to participate in the Newa Bhajan (Newari devotional hymn), which lasts for 2 hours (4 PM - 6 PM).
• Choose mid day if you are here for a cultural tour and if you’re planning to enter museums and observe the lifestyle around here. 

Cultural Etiquette

• Circumambulate the stupa and spin prayer wheels in a clockwise direction only since doing it counter-clockwise is disrespectful.
• Dress modestly befitting Hindu and Buddhist traditions to get more appreciated in temples and monasteries.
• Don’t disturb any monk, priest, or pilgrim when they are in the middle of chanting sutras or mantras.
• Some temples, monasteries, and thangka paintings restrict the use of cameras, so always ask permission before capturing a picture or recording a video. 

Photography, Video, and Souvenir Tips

• Take a wide-angle lens to get shots of Hermica and the spire from close to the base. If you’re thinking of candid shots, then a longer lens would be better. As for the best spots to get a picture, to be honest, almost every corner of Swayambhunath offers something unique!
• Drone usage and professional photography or videography require separate permission from the relevant authorities, which can be a bit of a hassle for international visitors. The prices also change for these activities, so if you want more guidance, then feel free to contact us!
• For souvenirs, Thangka paintings, singing bowls, prayer flags, beads, and garlands are widely sold in the Swayambhunath area. I suggest comparing a few shops before committing.

Responsible Tourism

• Don’t feed the monkeys, as it will encourage their aggressive behaviour and contribute to their overpopulation.
• Avoid exploring jungles and areas with no people and stick to marked paths for a comfortable visit.
• Many vendor owners here speak fluent English, and you might be surprised when they speak in your language but don't get swayed by their sweet words and buy useless items.
• Secure your belongings like bags and phones and cameras from monkeys and crowds, especially during crowds.

Nearby Destinations Worth the Detour

If you have a bit of extra time to explore beyond the main complex, these nearby spots offer a wonderful extension to your visit:

• Druk Amitabha Monastery (White Gumba): About 5 km northwest of Swayambhunath in Nagarjun is a monastery known for its Tibetan-style murals, gardens, and picturesque valley views. As you ascend the stairs in this monastery, you’ll observe the statue of Shakyamuni Buddha, Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, and finally Buddha Amitabha Statue and Druk Pema Karpo Statue. The site is reachable while doing a short hike through the lush green forests from the Sawaymbhunath or by a vehicle ride.
• Tergar Osel Ling Monastery: A monastery in the Chhokdol Height of Sitapaila area near White Gumba is worth combining into the same excursion. The monastery is home to the seventh Yongey Mingyur Rinpoche, a Tibetan Buddhist teacher, spiritual leader, and tulku from the Kagyu and Nyingma traditions. 

Note: From 4:30 pm, Wednesday until Friday morning, monks here take their weekly break!

• Single Tree Hill: A well-known local viewpoint on the base of Jamacho Hill near Swayambhunath, Single Tree is popular for valley viewing and the swing. The swing here was installed by a private company, and the prices go from NPR 300 to NPR 1000.
• Ichangu Narayan Temple: A short trip from Swayambhunath, it is one of the four historic Narayan (Vishnu) temples of the Kathmandu Valley. The temple was founded in around 1200 AD and attracts a lot of Hindu devotees. Its courtyard is full of Garuda statues and Vaishnava symbols and is the best destination to combine with Swayambhunath if you have enough time to spare.
• Jamacho Gumba: This is indeed a hike with a monastery on top at around 2,130 m inside Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park. After a half-day forest hike, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic Himalayan views and a glimpse of Swayambhunath from above.

I have visited a lot of religious sites in Kathmandu, but the experiences I have in Swayambhunath (over multiple visits) are just unforgettable! Do a short tour from the vehicle parking or climb up the 312 steps, or do a full day exploration; Swayambhunath will reward you with an everlasting memory.

The golden spire, all-seeing eyes of Buddha, temples, chaityas, monasteries, monkeys, and welcoming residents of Swayambhunath made me feel super special. Swayambhunath is undoubtedly one of the most striking monuments in the Kathmandu Valley. Very few sites manage to deliver this level of satisfaction!

You’ll see and experience the myth, history, architecture, and coexistence all before your eyes on this site. If we were friends, then I would definitely say this to you: “Go early if you can, climb the stairs if your knees allow it, and explore if you have time to spare, but put Swayambhunath in your bucket list; it’s a lifetime experience.”