Juju Dhau- The King of Yogurt

As our one-day Bhaktapur trip was about to end, our guide handed me a small terracotta pot. It was warm, rough, dried, and earth-colored. Inside of it was yogurt: ivory-colored, thick, dense, and almost set like a pudding. Yes, it was Bhaktapur’s beloved traditional delicacy, Juju Dhau!

I tried turning the pot upside down to check what happens. And like our guide claimed, it just sat there without flowing, and its shape remained intact!

And the taste of Juju Dhau? Well, it was more delicious than I had heard or imagined it to be!

As I lightly scraped the uppermost layer, it was creamy and sweet in taste. As I continued eating, the taste changed to mild tanginess. And by the end I felt the most refreshing feeling of the day.

The flavour was so good that I bought a big katauro (a clay bowl) of Juju Dhau to take home as a souvenir. You see, this yogurt is a must when visiting Bhaktapur, and I really recommend everyone of you to try it at least once in your life!

While enjoying its taste, I became even more curious about the history of Juju Dhau. 

Turns out the origin of Juju Dhau dates back several centuries during the Malla era. Slowly, the traditional taste of Bhaktapur transformed into the modern-day delicacy and tourist delight. 

The Malla Legend

According to a famous local legend, Malla kings of Kathmandu hosted a yogurt competition to find the best yogurt within the valley. The yogurt makers from Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, and Lalitpur all came with their best yogurt.

When the kings tasted the yogurt from Bhaktapur and liked its rich texture and sweet and creamy flavor, they were all impressed by it. And from that day onwards, it was recognized as Juju Dhau (king of yogurt).

The Caste Behind the Traditional Delicacy

Among the Newar community, the Dhaubadel caste was traditionally engaged in the preparation of Juju Dhau for the Malla kings and their courtiers. 

Over generations, curd production was expanded to castes like Timila, Pakwan, Sainju, Pradhananga, Hada, and Kayastha.

Present Day

Today, there are no social restrictions on who can consume or who can produce Juju Dhau. Most Juju Dhau producers have passed the craft down through three generations, with their hands-on practice rather than a written recipe.

As of 2023, around 60 families in Bhaktapur still make Juju Dhau today, with 48 families registered under the Bhaktapur Juju Dhau Union.

Juju Dhau is no longer made only for royalty, but it still tastes like it was!

The first spoonful of Juju Dhau made me curious. “How could a few ingredients make something so amazing?” To satisfy my curiosity, I went to the local dairy. Seeing the entire process that hadn't changed much over the years left me speechless.

Inside the dairy was a traditional setup with clay pots covered with rice husks and cloths. Watching the making of Juju Dhau was like watching people continue a tradition passed down through the generations.

At that moment, I knew why Juju Dhau is known as the “king of yogurt”.

Step 1: Choosing the Right Milk

“What milk do they use in Juju Dhau, and what gives it that custard-like density?” This was the first question I asked the locals here.

The local told me authentic Juju Dhau is made with fresh Buffalo milk. Buffalo milk naturally carries more fat and more protein content than cow milk, giving Juju Dhau a custard-like density.

When I asked further about the traditional preparation, the local producer grew noticeably quiet. They explained that the supply of buffalo milk has been steadily declining over the years. Many Juju Dhau makers are forced to use cow's milk even though they prefer using buffalo milk.

The high water and low-fat content of cow milk produces a thinner curd, which is a real threat to the authenticity of Juju Dhau. Because of the scarcity of buffalo milk, commercial Juju Dhau producers use a mix of cow and buffalo milk to reproduce the traditional Juju Dhau flavor.

Step 2: Preparing the Clay Pot

An unglazed clay pot, Katauro, is soaked in water for several hours (up to 24 hours). Then, the Katauro is left to dry naturally.

Sometimes, the soaked clay pot is also warmed over a fire to speed up the drying process. 

This process cleans the clay pot and removes moisture from it. This porosity of the clay pot is in fact the main secret behind the making of Juju Dhau.

Step 3: The Boiling Process

This process begins with boiling the milk in a large iron pot in a traditional kitchen. The milk is not boiled only once but two or three times. The fat and flavor deepen during each boil.

During the boiling process, various spices are added to the milk to enhance the taste. The spices mainly consist of cardamom powder and cloves.

Also, according to preferences, dry fruits such as cardamom, nuts, and chestnuts are added to enhance the taste.

In this stage, brown sugar or unrefined sugar is also added to the boiling milk to add sweetness without overwhelming the overall taste.

The boiled milk is poured into Katauro and left to cool down. The porous clay of Katauro absorbs the remaining water particles from the milk. This absorption of water particles concentrates the milk, producing a thick, creamy, and custard-like texture.

Step 4: The Fermentation Process

Technically, when the milk cools down to about 42°C, its temperature is suitable for bacteria to survive. Then, a spoonful of previously made Juju Dhau is added as a starter culture. 

The filled yogurt pots are now placed on a bed of rice husk and left to ferment, allowing them to develop into Juju Dhau.

Traditionally, a second clay pot is placed on top to trap warmth and absorb the vapor. This process adds a slightly earthy flavor to the yogurt.

The temperature is checked with a thermometer, but experience still plays the most important role. The makers know how the milk should look at every phase.

The maker feels how warm the room is, how thick the milk is, and what the season is. Even a slight change in temperature or humidity can affect the fermentation, which is why the experience of the maker is equally as crucial as the ingredients themselves.

Step 5: Testing

Then, after 4 to 6 hours of fermentation, the final product is a thick, creamy, ivory-white yogurt with a dense texture and a faint caramel note. It is sold and can be eaten straight from the pot it was made in. 

Now, the standard quality test of the yogurt is the “upside-down” method. If the cup is lifted upside-down and yogurt doesn't fall down, then it is correctly done.

I have tried various types of yogurt my whole life: simple home-made yogurt (Dahi in Nepali), Greek yogurt at the supermarket, and flavored yogurt. But my first taste of Juju Dhau in the alleys of Bhaktapur made me see yogurt differently.

The differences in sweetness, texture, and serving style of yogurts were easy to notice.

Before I tasted Juju Dhau, I thought all thick yogurts were the same as Greek yogurt, but the first spoon of Juju Dhau proved me wrong.

Greek yogurt is thick, but its clean texture reminds you that something has been removed. That’s where the Juju Dhau fills the void with its naturally rich texture.

The regular yogurt feels like an everyday part of the meal, while Juju Dhau feels like something reserved for special occasions.

So, if you are in Bhaktapur Durbar Square, make sure you try a freshly made pot of Juju Dhau from a local producer. With the first spoon, you will realize this yogurt has a richness unlike anything you've tasted before.

Growing up in the Kathmandu Valley, I always thought of Juju Dhau as a traditional dessert. But the more I researched Juju Dhau, the more I came to understand its importance in Newari culture.

Juju Dhau holds diverse significance in the Newari community. From the birth of a child to his/her death, Dhau (curd) is present. A Katauro of the Juju Dhau commonly present in weddings, festivals, pujas, and family gatherings not only as food but also as a symbol of blessing, purity, and good fortune.

Other than these annual or occasional rituals, Juju Dhau is a must-have item during various Jatras like Gai Jatra, Bhote Jatra, Bisket Jatra, and many more.

In the Newar community, any curd can be used in every event and ritual. However, many Newars still prefer Juju Dhau over other types of curds available in the market.

At first glance, seeing a Katouro of Juju Dhau next to a Samay Baji set may feel unexpected. But trust me when I say this: the moment your taste buds feel the fiery spices of Chhoila, you’ll reach for the yogurt instead of water.

Moreover, Juju Dhau, a part of local Newari cuisine, has an importance that extends far beyond the ceremonies and rituals in the Newari community. 

When I saw Juju Dhau in the hands of foreigners, at that moment, I realized that this delicacy has even become a powerful link between culture and commerce in Bhaktapur.

Well, Juju Dhau is found everywhere around Bhaktapur, but experience is just as important as taste. Whether you prefer Juju Dhau in a lively square or in peaceful surroundings, Bhaktapur Durbar Square has got you covered.

Here are some of the best places to try it:

• Durbar Square: You don’t have to search for Juju Dhau while you are at the Durbar Square. Every local dairy here sells authentic Juju Dhau. Durbar Square is home to various landmarks and temples such as Vatsala Temple, Yakchheshwor Mahadev Temple, Taleju Complex, and many more. Observing the intricate detail of the Golden Gate at Mul Chwok and gazing at every window of the 55-window palace is the best way to enjoy Juju Dhau.
• Taumadhi Square: Enjoying the Juju Dhau after climbing the staircase of Nyatapola Temple is definitely worth every spoonful. Every year during the Gaijatra festival, thousands of people gather in the courtyard of Taumadhi to remember the deceased. The same place is where Biska Jatra’s first day, Dyo Kwa Bijyayegu, is observed. Enjoying Juju Dhau while watching such festivals is a unique experience for sure.
• Pottery Square: Located to the south of Durbar Square, just a few minutes away, lies the Pottery Square. The whole square is covered with sun-dried clayware and offers a rare sight. Buying and eating Juju Dhau from the nearby dairy and watching potters make fresh clayware are the experiences that you won’t find at other squares.
  
  
• Dattatreya Square: Wandering around the courtyard and Bahals, and observing the intricate carvings on the temple and walls, is another way to enjoy the Juju Dhau. Don’t forget to visit the museums here!
• Siddha Pokhari and other ponds/pukhus: Siddha Pokhari, one of the biggest ponds in Bhaktapur, is different from other famous sites around Bhaktapur, one of the 7 heritage sites. The calm and peaceful surroundings of the pond provide relief from the crowds of the square. Spending time with your loved one here while enjoying Juju Dhau is definitely a unique idea!

Beyond Bhaktapur, Juju Dhau is available throughout the Kathmandu Valley, especially in Kathmandu, Lalitpur, Madhyapur Thimi, and Changu Narayan. However, outside the valley, the availability of Juju Dhau depends on the local distributor, making it less consistent.

Today, Juju Dhau’s presence can be experienced beyond Nepal. Nepalese people living abroad have started making Juju Dhau in various countries like Canada, the USA, New Zealand, Australia, the United Kingdom, etc.

However, the authentic experience and taste of Juju Dhau can be found only at local shops and dairies around the historical square of Bhaktapur!

Before arriving in Bhaktapur, enjoying Juju Dhau was on top of my to-do list. By the time I was heading home, Juju Dhau had become one of the most memorable experiences.

It was not just the texture or sweetness of the Juju Dhau that made it special for me. It was the craft that has been passed down through generations of families and the serving style that has not changed over the centuries.

And if you’re a foodie like me, I’m sure you know that the most helpful way to get a better understanding of the place and culture is through food. Juju Dhau is a perfect example of this!

Each spoonful of Juju Dhau you take gives you a glimpse into the culture and tradition of Bhaktapur that has been preserved for years. Whether you’re walking through the streets of the Durbar Square, resting by Siddha Pokhari, or roaming around the alleys of Bhaktapur, Juju Dhau feels like more than a delicacy!

For individuals who love outdoor activities like exploring and hiking, the Chisapani Nagarkot trek is another worthy destination.

So, I urge you to try the “king of yogurt" if you’re planning to visit Bhaktapur (whether you’re coming for a photography / culture-focused trip or just a half-day tour). The architecture of the palace and temple will amaze you, but the taste of Juju Dhau will stay with you even after you leave this UNESCO World Heritage Site!